The watery Veneto flat lands that fan out beyond Venice are a dreamy, disorienting world. Palazzo-stays are ubiquitous round here, but if you long for something less Palladian, Rosa Rosae fits the bill. A ‘crazy’ architect and his creative wife decide to save a ruined mill dating back to 1570 and open it to guests… you had us at buongiorno. Betty and Silvio describe their place as being about ‘an atmosphere of family and peace, essential and soft’. Candle lit original interiors, recycled wood and stone and metal, the odd contemporary piece and painting, white linen sheets: bliss. www.locandarosarosae.it